About
In a corner of the old highway embraced by the mountains of Hakone lies this slope called Shiromizuzaka, which welcomes travelers across the ages. The stone-paved path strongly retains the atmosphere of the Edo period, and the moss-covered stones speak to the depth of its history.
This slope is also known as “Shiromizuzaka” (“the slope where the castle cannot be seen”). In 1590, during the eighteenth year of Tensho, when Toyotomi Hideyoshi attacked Odawara Castle, it is said that the Hojo clan’s defending soldiers dropped a large number of stones from the top of this steep slope, forcing Hideyoshi’s forces to retreat without ever catching sight of Odawara Castle. For this reason, the slope was named “the slope where one turned back without seeing the castle.” (shigeojimbo.moo.jp)
As you walk along the slope, the irregularly arranged stone pavement seems to test the feet of travelers. It is said that this unevenness was intentionally created to hinder the advance of enemies. In addition, drainage ditches are installed beside the stone pavement to prevent rainwater from flowing onto the path. These structures are the crystallization of Edo period technology and wisdom, allowing one to feel both the hardships of travelers of the past and the thoughts of those who supported them. (tabi-mag.jp)
At the bottom of the slope, a sweet sake teahouse welcomes travelers. Continuing from the early Edo period, this teahouse has a history of over 400 years and is still cherished as a place of rest for travelers. Under its thatched roof, amazake and chikaramochi enjoyed around the hearth offer a special taste that soothes the fatigue of the journey. There is also a story that one of the Forty-seven Ronin, Kanzaki Yogorō, was harassed by a packhorse driver named Ushigorō here on his way to Edo. Kanzaki, considering it a trivial matter before the important raid, endured the humiliation and quietly left. (be-yond.net)
Walking along Shiromizuzaka, one finds a landscape where the breath of history and the beauty of nature are in harmony. This path shows different expressions with each season: fresh green sprouts in spring, lush foliage in summer, colorful leaves in autumn, and quiet stillness in winter. Travelers will likely feel the flow of time as they walk in this place where past and present intersect.
Hakone’s old highway Shiromizuzaka is not just a road. It is a stage for stories woven from history, culture, and nature, and a place that leaves a deep impression on those who visit. By walking this slope, one can feel the breath of travelers from the past and share the scenery they saw. It is sure to become a journey that leaves behind the bustle of the modern world and calms the heart.