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As you walk along the approach to Okunoin in Koyasan, Koya Town, Wakayama Prefecture, centuries-old cedar trees cover the sky, creating a space filled with silence and mystery. On both sides of the stone-paved path, countless moss-covered memorial towers and gravestones are lined up, said to number over 200,000. This is the sacred site where Kobo Daishi Kukai entered eternal meditation, and it is believed that he continues his meditation to this day.
Crossing Ichinohashi, the entrance to the approach, you will see memorial towers for some of the most famous warlords in history. Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Takeda Shingen, Uesugi Kenshin, Date Masamune, and others who once faced each other on the battlefield now rest here peacefully, beyond the boundaries of friend and foe. This is evidence of the tolerance of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, which accepts all people equally.
As you proceed along the path, you will find the Mizumuke Jizo by the banks of the Tamagawa River. Visitors offer water to this Jizo and pray for the repose of their ancestors and the deceased. In the past, it was customary to purify oneself in this river before heading to the mausoleum.
After crossing the Gobyobashi Bridge, the area beyond is considered sacred, and photography is prohibited. It is customary to bow when crossing the bridge and to compose your mind before proceeding. Beyond the bridge is the Lantern Hall, where countless lanterns are lit, creating a fantastical atmosphere. In the back of this Lantern Hall, Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum stands quietly.
At Okunoin, it is believed that Kobo Daishi is still alive, and twice daily, at 6 a.m. and 10:30 a.m., meals called “Shojin-gu” are offered to him. This is a ritual that has continued for over 1,200 years, with meals prepared at the offering hall and carried to the mausoleum. This ceremony is an expression of deep faith and respect for Kobo Daishi.
By walking along the approach to Okunoin, you can feel the profound charm of this place, where history and faith are alive. In the midst of the cedar grove, enveloped in silence, past and present intersect, and you may feel as if your heart is cleansed. This is a true sacred site that offers a place of peace and prayer equally to all who visit.