About
In the heart of Fukuoka's bustling cityscape, where the modern pulse of urban life thrums incessantly, there exists a quiet enclave that whispers tales from a distant past. Nestled along the banks of the tranquil Mikasa River, this unassuming spot is home to the "Nureginuzuka," or "Wet Garment Mound," a place steeped in sorrowful legend and cultural significance.
As one approaches, the cacophony of the city fades, replaced by the gentle murmur of flowing water and the rustling of leaves in the breeze. The air carries a subtle scent of earth and stone, mingling with the faint aroma of incense from nearby temples. Here, amidst the verdant foliage, stands an ancient stone monument, weathered by time yet resolute in its presence. This is the "Kōei San-nen Mei Bonji Itahi," a stone stele dating back to 1344, its surface etched with intricate Sanskrit characters—bonji—that invoke the protective deities of Buddhist tradition. The topmost character represents Dainichi Nyorai, the Cosmic Buddha; to the right below is Hōdō Nyorai, and to the left, Tengurai On Nyorai. These inscriptions, though eroded, still exude a profound sense of reverence and mystery.
The legend that enshrouds this place is as haunting as it is poignant. During the reign of Emperor Shōmu in the 8th century, a provincial governor named Sano Chikayo arrived in Chikuzen Province, accompanied by his wife and his beautiful daughter, Haruhime. Tragedy struck when his wife passed away, leading Chikayo to remarry a local woman. This stepmother, consumed by jealousy towards Haruhime, devised a malicious scheme. She conspired with a local fisherman to falsely accuse Haruhime of stealing a fishing garment—a "nureginu." One fateful night, Chikayo was led to his daughter's chamber, where he found her asleep, a wet fishing garment placed beside her as fabricated evidence. Blinded by rage and betrayal, he acted without seeking the truth, taking his daughter's life in a moment of fury.
In the aftermath, Chikayo was tormented by visions of Haruhime appearing in his dreams, reciting mournful poems that lamented her unjust fate. One such poem lamented:
"The wet garment I am accused of donning, A testament to a name unjustly stained."
Realizing the grave injustice he had committed, Chikayo was consumed by remorse. He divorced his treacherous wife and chose a path of penance, renouncing his official duties to become a monk. In honor of his daughter, he established seven temples along the riverbank, known collectively as the "Hakata Shichidō" or "Seven Temples of Hakata." These temples—Fugen-dō, Tsuji-no-dō, Ishi-dō, Oku-no-dō, Kaya-dō, Waki-dō, and Kawara-dō—served as sanctuaries of prayer and reflection, their names enduring in the local geography to this day.
The term "nureginu," meaning "wet garment," evolved from this tragic tale to signify false accusations or unjust blame—a linguistic legacy that permeates Japanese culture. The Nureginuzuka stands as a solemn reminder of the consequences of hasty judgments and the enduring human quest for redemption.
Visitors to this site often find themselves enveloped in a contemplative silence, the weight of history pressing gently upon them. The surrounding area, though modernized, retains echoes of its storied past. Nearby, the Matsubara Water Well, once a vital source of pure water for the community, continues to flow, its presence a testament to the resilience of tradition amidst the tides of change.
As the sun casts its golden hues over the Mikasa River, the Nureginuzuka stands as a bridge between epochs—a place where the past is not forgotten but honored, where the whispers of history invite reflection on the complexities of human nature and the timeless pursuit of justice and forgiveness.