About
As you proceed through the grounds of Todaiji, enveloped in the tranquility of Nara, Nigatsudo emerges from between the cedar groves. Its presence exudes a dignity that transcends time and conveys the weight of history. Standing before the hall, the scent of wood mingles with the lingering sense of prayers that have continued since ancient times.
The name Nigatsudo derives from the “Shunie” ceremony held in the second month of the lunar calendar. This event was initiated in 752 by the monk Jitchu and has continued without interruption ever since. Within the hall are enshrined two statues of the Eleven-Faced Kannon, the Great Kannon and the Small Kannon, which are considered absolutely secret Buddhas and may not be viewed by anyone. Nevertheless, their presence evokes a deep sense of reverence in the hearts of visitors.
Every March, during the Shunie period, the flames of “Otaimatsu” scorch the night sky as they race across the stage of Nigatsudo. The sight of the giant torches, about 8 meters long and weighing around 70 kilograms, scattering sparks as they illuminate the feet of the monks is truly spectacular. It is said that being showered by these sparks brings blessings of good health and safety, and many worshippers eagerly await this moment.
The climax of Shunie, known as “Omizutori,” is a sacred ritual held late at night on March 12, in which fragrant water is drawn from the Wakasa Well beneath Nigatsudo and offered to the principal deity. According to legend, this water was presented by Onyu Myojin as an apology for being late to the Shunie, and this story is still passed down today.
From the stage of Nigatsudo, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the Nara Basin. At sunrise, the soft light illuminates the townscape, and at dusk, an orange sky spreads out. At night, distant lights twinkle like stars, evoking the breath of history in the stillness. This scenery soothes the hearts of visitors and makes them forget the passage of time.
Around Nigatsudo stands a great tree called the Ryoben Cedar. According to legend, Ryoben, the first head priest of Todaiji, was abducted by an eagle as a child and left atop this tree. Later, he entered the Buddhist path at this place and laid the foundation for Todaiji. This cedar still stands quietly as a witness to that history.
Nigatsudo is not merely a building, but a place where prayers and traditions spanning over a thousand years are alive. Those who visit may sense, within its silence, something that connects the past, present, and future.