About
Kaneiji Temple, standing quietly in Ueno’s forest, is a place where one can escape the bustle of Edo and feel the weight of silence and history. Founded in 1625 by Tokugawa Iemitsu and the high priest Tenkai, this temple served as the Tokugawa shogunate’s prayer temple and was known as the “Hieizan of the East.”
Upon entering the temple grounds, the first thing that catches the eye is the Main Hall (Konpon Chudo). This main hall was relocated from Kita-in Temple in Kawagoe City, Saitama Prefecture, and is said to have been built by Iemitsu in 1638. Inside the hall, three wooden statues of the Medicine Buddha are enshrined, and their tranquil presence calms the hearts of visitors.
As you proceed through the grounds, you come upon the Kiyomizu Kannon-do. Built in 1631, this hall was modeled after Kyoto’s Kiyomizu-dera, and from its stage you can enjoy a panoramic view of Shinobazu Pond. In spring, the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and in autumn, the foliage colors the scenery—this view has been beloved by many since the Edo period.
At the center of Shinobazu Pond floats Nakanoshima Island, where Bentendo Hall stands. This island and hall, modeled after Chikubushima in Lake Biwa, are dedicated to Benzaiten, one of the Seven Lucky Gods, and attract worshippers praying for business prosperity and academic success. While the island could once only be reached by boat, today a stone bridge allows anyone to visit easily.
Kaneiji’s history has walked hand in hand with the prosperity of Edo. However, during the Battle of Ueno in 1868, many of its buildings were lost to fire, and the present grounds have been reduced to about one-tenth of their original size. Even so, structures such as Kiyomizu Kannon-do, Bentendo, and the five-story pagoda remain scattered throughout, conveying the breath of history to visitors.
Kaneiji is also known as the Tokugawa shogunate’s family temple, with mausoleums for successive shoguns. In particular, the imperial plaque gate and water basin pavilion of the Joken-in Mausoleum, the resting place of the fifth shogun Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, are designated Important Cultural Properties and still convey their beauty today.
As you walk through the grounds, the sound of the time bell echoes. This bell is known from Matsuo Basho’s haiku, “Clouds of blossoms—is it Ueno or Asakusa, the bell?” and it served to tell the time to the people of Edo. Even now, it rings at 6 a.m., 6 p.m., and noon, and its tone deeply resonates with visitors.
Kaneiji is a tranquil space woven from the nature and history of each season. During cherry blossom season, it is bustling with flower viewers, and in autumn, the grounds are colored with foliage. This place, where history and nature are in harmony, offers visitors peace of mind and a sense of Edo’s lingering presence.