About
In the heart of Kyoto's Kita Ward, nestled along the eastern approach to the venerable Imamiya Shrine, stands a time-honored establishment that has withstood the ebb and flow of centuries. This is Ichiwa, also known as Ichimonjiya Wasuke, a confectionery shop whose origins trace back to the year 1000, making it one of Japan's oldest sweet shops. (tabizine.jp)
As you approach, the air is filled with the inviting aroma of aburi-mochi—small, skewered rice cakes dusted with kinako (roasted soybean flour), gently grilled over charcoal until they achieve a delicate char. The rhythmic turning of the skewers by skilled hands is a dance passed down through generations, a testament to the shop's enduring legacy.
Stepping inside, the ambiance transports you to a bygone era. The building, with sections dating back to the Genroku era (circa 1700) and others from the Taisho period, exudes a rustic charm. Designated as a Kyoto City Tangible Cultural Property, the structure's wooden beams and tatami-matted floors whisper stories of the countless patrons who have sought solace and sweetness within its walls. (tabizine.jp)
Seated on the engawa, the traditional veranda, you are presented with a tray bearing a generous serving of aburi-mochi. Each skewer holds bite-sized morsels, their surfaces caramelized to perfection, draped in a luscious, slightly sweet white miso sauce. The first bite reveals a harmonious blend of textures—the crisp exterior yielding to a soft, chewy center—while the interplay of sweet and savory flavors dances on your palate. A sip of freshly brewed green tea cleanses the palate, preparing you for the next delightful mouthful.
The origins of aburi-mochi are steeped in history. It is said that during the Heian period, in the year 1000, the Yasuai Festival was held at Imamiya Shrine to ward off epidemics. During this festival, aburi-mochi was offered to visitors, marking the beginning of this cherished tradition. Over the centuries, this simple yet profound confection has become a symbol of protection and good health, a sweet talisman against misfortune. (tabizine.jp)
The shop's enduring presence is not merely a testament to its culinary offerings but also to the resilience and dedication of the family that has stewarded it through the ages. Now in its 25th generation, the current proprietors continue to honor the time-honored methods, ensuring that each skewer of aburi-mochi carries the essence of a millennium-old tradition. (tabizine.jp)
As you savor the final piece, the gentle hum of the city fades, leaving only the crackle of the charcoal and the soft murmur of contented patrons. In this moment, time seems to stand still, allowing you to partake in a ritual that has been cherished for over a thousand years. The experience at Ichiwa is more than a culinary delight; it is a journey through history, a connection to the soul of Kyoto, and a reminder of the enduring power of tradition.