Hozenji Mizukake Fudo (West-Facing Fudo Myo-o)

Renowned Temple in Chuo Ward, Osaka City

About

In the heart of Osaka's bustling Namba district, where neon lights flicker and the air hums with the energy of countless souls, there exists a serene enclave that whispers tales of devotion and resilience. Amidst the labyrinthine alleys, one stumbles upon a narrow stone-paved path leading to a sanctuary untouched by time—the revered Water-Throwing Fudō Myōō, or Mizukake Fudō-son.

As you step into this sacred space, the cacophony of the city fades, replaced by the gentle murmur of water and the soft rustle of leaves. Before you stands the statue of Fudō Myōō, the Immovable Wisdom King, his form entirely enshrouded in a lush mantle of emerald moss. This verdant cloak is not the work of nature alone but the result of countless hands, each pouring water over the deity in acts of supplication and gratitude. (houzenji.jp)

The tradition of dousing the statue with water began in the aftermath of World War II. A woman, seeking solace and aid, found herself before the statue without an offering. In a spontaneous act of faith, she scooped water from a nearby source and poured it over Fudō Myōō, beseeching his intervention. This heartfelt gesture resonated with others, and soon, the ritual of mizukake—water pouring—became a cherished practice, symbolizing the cleansing of sins and the renewal of spirit. (houzenji.jp)

Flanking the moss-clad deity are two attendant figures: Kongara Dōji and Seitaka Dōji. These youthful acolytes, with their serene expressions, are believed to assist Fudō Myōō in guiding devotees toward enlightenment. Couples often direct their prayers to these figures, seeking blessings for harmonious relationships, while others appeal for health, prosperity, or the fulfillment of personal aspirations. (houzenji.jp)

Adjacent to this sacred trio stands the Konpira-dō, a modest shrine dedicated to Konpira, the guardian deity of seafarers and travelers. This presence harks back to a time when Osaka's waterways were vital arteries of commerce and culture, and sailors would seek Konpira's protection before embarking on perilous voyages. (houzenji.jp)

The temple's history is as layered as the city itself. Established in 1637 by the monk Sennen Hōshi, Hōzen-ji was originally located in Kyoto's Uji region before relocating to Osaka. The area surrounding the temple became known as "Sennichimae," meaning "in front of the thousand-day temple," a nod to the monk's dedication to performing a thousand days of continuous nembutsu chanting for the repose of souls. (houzenji.jp)

Over the centuries, Hōzen-ji has withstood numerous trials. Fires in 1828 and 1852 ravaged its structures, yet each time, the community rallied to rebuild. The most harrowing test came during the Osaka air raids of 1945, which reduced much of the city to ashes. Miraculously, the statue of Mizukake Fudō-son emerged unscathed, standing as a testament to enduring faith amidst devastation. (houzenji.jp)

Encircling the temple is the famed Hōzen-ji Yokocho, a narrow alleyway brimming with traditional eateries and teahouses. The cobblestone path, illuminated by the soft glow of lanterns, evokes a bygone era, offering a stark contrast to the modernity that looms beyond its confines. This alleyway gained literary fame through Sakunosuke Oda's novel "Meoto Zenzai," which immortalized the locale's charm and the warmth of its people. (houzenji.jp)

As night descends, the temple and its surroundings take on an ethereal quality. The moss on Fudō Myōō glistens under the ambient light, and the scent of incense mingles with the distant aroma of sizzling street food. Visitors, both local and from afar, pause to pour water over the statue, their whispered prayers merging into a collective hope that transcends language and culture.

In this sacred nook of Osaka, the Water-Throwing Fudō Myōō stands as a silent witness to the ebb and flow of time, a symbol of unwavering faith and the enduring human spirit. Here, amidst the city's relentless pace, one finds a moment of stillness, a place where the soul can breathe, and the heart can find peace.