About
In a corner of Ryogoku, Sumida Ward, in the downtown area of Tokyo, there stands a small park that still conveys the breath of history. Honjo Matsuzaka-cho Park is the former site of the residence of Kira Kozuke-no-suke Yoshinaka. This place is known as the stage where, on December 14, 1702 (the 15th year of Genroku), the forty-seven Akō rōnin carried out their famous raid.
The namako (sea cucumber) walls surrounding the park evoke the dignity and status of the high-ranking samurai families of the past. Upon stepping inside these walls, the first thing that catches the eye is a seated statue of Kira Kozuke-no-suke. This statue was modeled after the wooden seated statue that Yoshinaka himself commissioned at the age of fifty, which still exists at Kegonji Temple in Kira Town, Nishio City, Aichi Prefecture. The statue’s gentle expression differs from the villainous image depicted in Chūshingura, instead reflecting his reputation as a wise lord who governed his domain well.
Beside the statue, the “Mishirushi Arai Ido” (Well for Washing the Mark) sits quietly. This well is said to be where the Akō rōnin washed Kira’s severed head during the raid. Touching the edge of the well, one can imagine the scene from over three hundred years ago, on a cold snowy night, as a chapter of history unfolded.
Further on, a stone monument comes into view, commemorating the twenty retainers of the Kira family. Their names are inscribed here; they lost their lives that night defending their lord. Every year on December 14, a Gishi Festival is held to honor both the forty-seven Akō rōnin and these retainers, drawing people who quietly reflect on the tragedy of history.
Within the park also stands the Matsuzaka Inari Daimyojin. This Inari shrine was originally called Kaneharu Inari and has been enshrined here since the early Edo period. After the raid, it was relocated to purify the grounds of the former Kira residence, and in 1935 it was merged with Ueno Inari, resulting in its present form. Passing through the vermilion torii gates and joining one’s hands in prayer, one can feel the depth of faith that transcends eras.
The existence of this park is supported by the deep affection and efforts of the local residents. In 1934 (the 9th year of Showa), volunteers from the Ryogoku Sanchome neighborhood association purchased part of the former Kira residence site and donated it to the city of Tokyo, thus preserving this historic place as a park. The current park is only one eighty-sixth the size of the original residence, but it is filled with the passion of those determined to pass on history to future generations.
Walking through the streets surrounding the park, one finds buildings that evoke the atmosphere of Edo, as well as sumo stables scattered about, giving Ryogoku its unique character. Nearby is also the birthplace of Katsushika Hokusai, and perhaps the scenery and air he experienced here influenced his works.
Honjo Matsuzaka-cho Park is not just an ordinary park. It is imbued with the weight of history and the thoughts of people. Spending quiet time here, reflecting on the past and looking anew at oneself in the present, is a pleasure in itself.