About
In the heart of Matsusaka City, where the whispers of history intertwine with the present, stands a structure that embodies the resilience and spirit of a bygone era. This is the Gojōban Yashiki, a samurai residence that has withstood the passage of time, its walls echoing tales of duty, honor, and the delicate balance between tradition and change.
As one approaches, the meticulously maintained槇垣 (makigaki) hedges frame the path, their verdant leaves a testament to the care bestowed upon this place. The stone-paved street, polished smooth by countless footsteps, leads to the imposing white-walled土蔵 (dozō), a storehouse that once safeguarded the lifeblood of the domain—rice. This particular土蔵 is not merely a storage facility; it is a relic from松坂城 (Matsusaka Castle), relocated here to continue its silent vigil over the community's sustenance.
The Gojōban Yashiki itself is a marvel of Edo-period architecture. Constructed in文久3年 (1863), it served as the dwelling for twenty紀州藩士 (Kishu hanshi), each entrusted with the protection of松坂城. These samurai, bearing the weight of forty石 (koku) stipends, resided here with their families, their lives woven into the fabric of the castle town. The long, single-story buildings stretch gracefully along the street, their tiled roofs and wooden facades exuding a quiet dignity.
Stepping inside the open house, one is transported to a time when the clatter of wooden sandals echoed through the corridors. The layout is a harmonious blend of functionality and simplicity: a土間 (doma) earthen floor leads to tatami-matted rooms, where sliding shoji doors allow for a fluid transition between spaces. The hearth, once the heart of the home, stands ready to warm both body and spirit, its soot-stained walls bearing witness to countless shared meals and stories.
Beyond the living quarters, the庭 (niwa) garden offers a serene retreat. Carefully pruned trees and raked gravel create a landscape that invites contemplation. Here, the samurai would have found solace, their minds momentarily freed from the burdens of duty as they gazed upon the delicate blossoms of the季節 (kisetsu) seasons.
The history of the Gojōban Yashiki is deeply intertwined with the tumultuous events of the late Edo period. The samurai who inhabited these quarters were descendants of the横須賀党 (Yokosuka-tō), warriors who once served as the vanguard for徳川家康 (Tokugawa Ieyasu). Their journey to松阪 (Matsusaka) was marked by a steadfast commitment to their lord, even in the face of political upheaval. When ordered to become vassals of the安藤家 (Andō family), they chose the uncertain path of浪人 (rōnin), forsaking their status to uphold their principles. After six years of hardship, their loyalty was recognized, and they were reinstated as direct retainers, assigned to guard松坂城.
Today, the Gojōban Yashiki stands as a living monument to this legacy. Unlike many historical sites that have succumbed to the ravages of time or modernization, this residence continues to be inhabited. The descendants of those original samurai, along with other families, maintain the property, their lives a continuation of the story etched into these walls. This continuity imbues the place with a unique vitality, a bridge between past and present.
Visitors are welcomed to explore this remarkable site, to walk the same stone paths, to touch the same wooden beams, and to feel the same tatami underfoot. The open house offers a glimpse into the daily lives of the samurai, their routines, and the aesthetic sensibilities that guided their existence. It is a rare opportunity to step into history, not as a distant observer, but as a participant in a narrative that continues to unfold.
As the sun sets, casting a golden hue over the white walls and tiled roofs, one cannot help but reflect on the enduring spirit of the Gojōban Yashiki. It is a place where the past is not merely remembered but lived, where the values of honor, duty, and community are not relics of history but guiding principles for the present. In this quiet corner of Matsusaka, the soul of the samurai endures, inviting all who visit to partake in its timeless story.