About
As you walk along the stone-paved old Hakone road, nestled quietly in the mountains wrapped in deep greenery, stands a solitary teahouse with a thatched roof. This is “Amazake Chaya,” a place with about 400 years of history dating back to the early Edo period. Having soothed the fatigue of travelers and warmed their hearts, this spot continues to welcome visitors today in its unchanged form.
Passing through the shop’s noren curtain, the earthen floor feels pleasantly cool underfoot. Charcoal quietly burns in the hearth, with smoke gently rising toward the ceiling. The scent of wood and charcoal mingles, creating an air that feels somehow nostalgic. On the walls hang photographs of travelers from the Edo period, allowing you to sense their presence across the flow of time.
The specialty amazake is characterized by its natural sweetness, made only from rice and rice malt. No sugar or additives are used, and it is finished non-alcoholic. With just one sip, a gentle sweetness spreads throughout your mouth, and the fatigue of travel melts away. Made using the same method since the Edo period, this amazake is truly a nourishing drink, often called a “drinkable IV.” (amasake-chaya.jp)
The chikara mochi is another delicacy long loved by travelers. Mochi, plumply grilled over binchotan charcoal, is crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside. There are three varieties: “isobe,” highlighting the savory flavor of soy sauce; “uguisu,” dusted with mildly sweet roasted soybean flour; and “black sesame,” mixed with freshly ground black sesame (limited quantity). Each offers a unique flavor to delight travelers’ palates. (amasake-chaya.jp)
An anecdote about Kanzaki Yogorō, one of the Akō rōnin, is passed down at this teahouse. On his way to Edo, he was offered a horse by Ushigorō, a packhorse driver, but declined, prompting Ushigorō to curse at him. Yogorō reached for his sword, but, swallowing his anger and considering it a small matter before a great one, he restrained himself. He wrote a letter of apology at Amazake Chaya and apologized by kneeling. Later, Ushigorō learned that the rōnin at that time was Kanzaki Yogorō and is said to have repented. (tabiulala.com)
Inside the shop, travelers can be seen sitting down, sipping amazake, and conversing. Outside the window, Hakone’s rich natural scenery spreads out, with the changing seasons soothing the heart. In spring, fresh green leaves sprout; in summer, the sound of cicadas echoes. In autumn, the mountains are colored by autumn leaves, and in winter, snowy landscapes bring tranquility. No matter the season, there is always unchanging warmth and peace here.
Amazake Chaya is more than just a rest stop. It is a place that connects travelers’ hearts across generations, a space where history and culture are alive. A cup of amazake enjoyed here becomes a bridge between past and present, offering deep emotion to those who visit. Why not surrender yourself to the flow of time and enjoy a journey of the heart at this teahouse embraced by the mountains of Hakone?